Pachamama

A pink neon ‘A’ marks the spot. Confusingly so, for a new Peruvian-inspired restaurant called Pachamama.

It’s a new incarnation on, let’s call it the lower slopes of Marylebone, Thayer Street.

Founded by an anthropologist with an eye for branding and the chap who used to run the same spot when it was known as SamarQand. The chef, Tom Catley, is not Peruvian and there wasn’t a hint of Peruvian inspiration to be discovered apart from the cartoons in reception.

It’s eerily quiet, with the few customers tucked away in the back room, and the staff are pleasant. We’ve got the place to ourselves at 12 30 on a Christmas Thursday lunchtime.

Plates are £6 each, small and made for sharing. The lunch menu short, makes for salivating reading and service quick.

The food was either bland or salty – rocks of the stuff. The sea bass ceviche,  which should have been the invigorating
highlight,  a nice enough portion and quality fish but had only a passing acquaintance with flavour. This was bunny not tiger territory.

Skewers of chicken and veal could have been from the Greek place down the road – their granular spicing mercifully dampened by the celeriac mash.

The ribs were tasty as was the duck. If a little the wrong side of crispy.

But the  quinoa that couldn’t be rescued by a Granny Smith apple.

A watery old fashioned slash negroni – sorry Rosa del Inca a pisco infused with pink peppercorns and Volcano coffee beans, vermouth, Campari, orange bitters  was nicely made and presented but had the look but not the taste – a British pisco made with British ingredients just doesn’t have the bite.

And there’s the rub. Using locally sourced produce to get something vaguely Latin is a challenge. Kent tomato salsa anyone?

The decor is eclectic –  bashed walls, perhaps from trying to get that horse down there, an attractive long run bar and good lighting are fair enough.

It’s lain undiscoverd since 15th October but it’s a tomb where even mother earth can’t hear you scream.

Pachamama

18 Thayer Street

020 7935 9393